I did find that the big fan motor was no good. You may want to put your car up on stands or ramps if you have the urge to get under the car to help with this job: 1 Remove battery, and tray under battery which has 4 bolts holding it in. If the few beats did the trick, or because the temperature under the hood dropped remains to be seen. Not too bad right now, mid-20s. To continue in the elimination method, I disconnected the Plug from the Radiator Unit located at the drivers side right side of the car if looking at the car from the front and found three wires in that plug.
Read here: Can anyone offer how to test the module to see if it is bad? Frequently but not always after a run were the car has got to temperature when turned off then started again even within a couple of hours the fans pulse, again causing air con pump to not engage. Are these all the same or do I need that specific one? Cheers, Andy I have some of the similar problems with my '99 1. They'll only charge me for the labor time it actually ends up taking them. I had water to the right level and the car operated great till that day. Can anyone offer how to test the module to see if it is bad? A duty cycle above 90 percent or below 20 percent will command the compressor off.
I'll check back in when my compressor gets sorted. Not an auto repair expert? Failure to do so will result in your account being locked out! Jeremy answered about a year ago That's the problem, I don't know how hard this one is to change. All up start to finish this took me 2 hours but much of this time was spent using my sub standard tools trying to bolt the battery back in place! The good news is the temp gauge definitely works because if shoots up if the car is not moving at a good clip! Also, check the connections going from the battery. The control module part of the fan itself was intermittent which was causing the engine to overtemp. This is a constant battery source and should read 12 volts at all times from fuse S16. You've come to the right place to get affordable quality Auxiliary Fan Control Units for your Volkswagen Jetta.
If the light is green on the tester its good. I changed the coolant sensor green cap because that was an easy one to try but it made no difference. I only saw the fans spin at 1st and secondary speeds. There is no way to test it other than to verify every input and every power and ground. Meaning you have to understand what every wire does and you have to be able to test the voltage and know it is correct on every wire.
Suggestions or any tips please? Any help would be appreciated. The shop is calling for an hour of labor but that just seems excessive to me. Not sure, but I do suspect that the problem is more frequent when the car has been standing i direct sunlight and heated up. We use data about you for a number of purposes explained in the links below. Located near your coolant overflow tank, this module is responsible for controlling the activation of your main engine cooling fan. The fans now run for aobut 5mins when i turn of the ignition, this sets my alarm off so i need to wait until the fans stop before setting my alarm, it happens all the time even when iv only traveled 2mins and the engine is still cold.
Inside that there are some thick wires running underneath. Any ideas on what to else to check? If you find nothing under the bodywork, check to see what that plug is attached to. Also, any advice on there being something else wrong not just the fan control module? It's not just a plug in relay. But now it's a few months later and all of a sudden the radiator fans have stopped coming on. We've worked hard over 11 years designing a website experience that makes it easy for anyone to idenify whether parts fit their car. In the 3rd picture you've posted up there is a black plastic cover in the bottom left hand corner.
I then disconnected the fans and started the car till it reached about 100 deg. Below the battery there is a few grounding points, check those as well. Thanks for the answers but I think someone familiar with this specific module on this car is the only one who's going to be able to answer this. Have you noticed your engine temperature is a bit higher than normal? The usual Chindia sources E. Although its been broken for the last 3 years and now it was the time to fail. Those wires, again on mine, run to what you're looking for.
Really starting to annoy me now. Process for replacing the ac module for anyone who wants to have a go is like this. Another thing talking about the vr6, in the thermostrat housing are three sensor one of them also makes the fans to kick in and another works with the cluster gage to read the temparature but like i said im not familiar with the 1. Tried a fan control module that is known to be working today but still nothing. Industries, specializes in developing top-tier European replacement parts for the automotive aftermarket. Now occasionally the fans will pulse for 30 seconds or so on first start of the day i say occasionalyy and not always they then stop, during this 30 seconds the air con pump wont engage at all! Check systems pressures first; if the refrigerant pressure is low it will not engage. Check the connections on the 3 fuses on top of the battery.