Car running fine for a couple weeks now. Then it took anywhere from 8 hours to several days for it to dry out and be able to start again. I live in an apartment now and don't want to give my crotchety neighbors an excuse to complain. On the left side i have the rear windsheild washer bottle, and 2 connectors there, I disconnected both, and tried if that was what you were explaining, but neither worked. Does the keyless entry system still work? Squeezed in even farther to get the 11-wire, reconnected the 8 wire, and it started right up.
They are both located in the left rear side panel. One appeared to kill power to the alarm system once removed, and the other had something to do with the kill switch. Any chance these may be causing the problem? It gets to be a hassle! I put the key in the door, the ignition, the back doors, nothing works! I read something about the module being in the rear kick panel, and will look there and play with that tomorrow, but was hoping for a little more insight as well. It was badly treated and needed a new motor. The Electrician apparantly had the key etc. Occaisonally it will go off in the middle of the night. What could be causing this? As it sat in the shed waiting for the rest of the makeover it would intermittingly not start and then start.
If we do not start it up in under 1 minute, we have to push it again! The last straw was when I was heading home at 3am one morning. I look online and they said to unplung the connector in rear kick side panel. Anyway, once I was able to start it, I located my anti-theft module, rear driver corner panel. Every time I plug in the battery, the damn alarm goes off. It seems that the alarm's black box was tucked up above the fuse box. They were moving the car around the yard as need be and then it would'nt start.
Hope you can help Plowy If they dont have a scanner capable of communicating with the anti-theft system, you might have to go to the dealer or another shop that can. I put a new one in:The horn started honking,flashers went on, ect. Tested and they were fine so I'm wondering if while the blinker combination switch was being replaced something happened in that area to stop the car from starting alltogether. It looks like it should. Of the 2 white connectors it is the most forward connector you have to disconnect, I had to disconnect both then re-connect the 8-pin rear most connector. This is the key that comes with the vehicle from the factory that is specially coded to start the vehicle. I had to leave the kill switch one in place, and just bypassed the kill switch by splicing the two wires to the switch together.
Not sure if this is available. Not to mention it may not even be the wiring, it may be that the alarm needs to be re-programmed to function properly. She got to her destination the power comp. I jiggled the key every which way in the ignition and finally it worked one time. Our advice is to take your car to a qualified alarm installer and ask them to remove the alarm because it does take some wiring knowledge and experience to know what to remove.
The alarm goes off in the midddle of the night without setting the alarm what do I do. There are 2 seperate modules. Use of the wiring information is at your own risk. It has been starting great for two days now. I'd like to keep the keyless entry if possible, but am willing to live without it if it's integrated into the alarm system. I have narrowed it down to the stupid factory anti-theft alarm that will lock the ignition out and the power will not go to the starter.
I pulled mine and my alarm issues went away with the plug. If I unplung it the car wont start but I tride it. Different brands and different setups will call for different wiring. Good luck on your 1996 Ford Windstar alarm removal. At 1st it cranked with the key, that quit working a year ago! So how do I keep this alarm system from arming itself? Of the 2 connecters 1 will have 8 wires, and the other will have 11 wires. Me and my neighbors thank you! I do not have the keyless entry code or keyfob because i bought the vehicle used. Sometimes this is what it takes because the system is operating in it's parameters and will not set a code? I tested the ignition switch under the stearing column and it appears ok so i am assuming that the anti theft device is in Theft mode.
. I can no longer engage the starter with the key , I have to jump across the drivers side engine compartment starter solenoid to start the vehicle. I gave my daughter my 95 explorer so she could have a vehicle, and she was driving down the road when the anti-theft light came on. You may have to do this a couple times so be patient. Often within seconds after locking it either manually or with the remote. I lost my keys to my 94xlt, including the keyless entry.
I think it just needs to be reset. That usually will reset them. I have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4. My problem was, any time and every time, it rained my alarm would be set off. Our advice is to take your car to a qualified alarm installer and ask them to disarm the alarm because it does take some wiring knowledge and experience to know what to do.
Is it ok to unplung one or the other. We recently changed the battery on the car. Is it something I could fix myself or does it need to go to the dealer? One of the most time consuming tasks with installing an after market car alarm, car security, car remote start, automatic remote starter, shock sensor, tilt sensor, car alarm sensor or any auto alarm is identifying the correct color car security wires for a 1995 Ford Explorer. I tried your remedy of looking for the 11 wire bundle forward of the 4wd black box above the dirver's side rear wheel, but there is nothing there. Our automotive wiring diagrams allow you to enjoy your new auto security electronics rather than spend countless hours trying to figure out which wires goes where.