The transfer case input shaft, on the other hand, has proven to take the abuse of over 1200 horsepower! I don't want to keep throwing money at it if there is another option. I dont remember what Time2Kill used to charger for his resplined units but even those were expensive, and to be fair they were plenty strong enough. If it does I will give a link so you guys can see what I am talking about. I have the 4L80e and a 246 and want to switch and still looking if there is a way around this. The shifter is further back, though, right on the tailshaft. I came across thread about a 98 Blazer v8 swap while looking through the forums and I think it will serve as a good guide for my swap. Yeah but dropped uprights are cheapish, and someone on the Avalanche forum figured out how to squeeze coilovers between the cv axles and control arm in the stock shock location.
We can help you remove the questions marks and possibilities of getting a poorly re-built transfer case. Curious if anyone has tried this or knows. Hopefully a new transfer case will solve the issues. An upgraded case protector is available to stop this problem. They shortened the rear shaft and made a new front shaft. So to discredit the efforts and workmanship of those who have made, sold and used the re-splined factory units by advertising these as superior is a bit of a joke.
Some people say use 2. Midwest Transmission Center can provide a transfer case saver to ensure this does not happen to you. Anyways here are the pictures: If I make it through this swap without too much difficulty that Chevy truck you see in the background will be getting a 6. I've made I don't know how many mid to high 11 second passes and 1 10. I am trying to educate myself on this swap as much as I can before I get started so i don't make any costly time and money mistakes.
My google fu is failing me this evening. If anyone is interested I will take pictures and post some sort of guide of this swap. You can also have your existing case rebuilt to handle more power, and if need be they can change the input gear to match whatever transmission you want to use. Noise has also been attributed to failure of output oil seal, loss fluid and bearing failure. That is a topic for another message board and another time though.
It has a planetary differential gear set that splits the torque, normally 38 percent to the front wheels and 62 percent to the rear wheels and adjusts front to rear or vice versa depending on the wheels slipping. I doubt if its much bigger, if at all, than the 700R4 and it might actually be the same overall length which would make life easier. It's a lot easier to decide it isn't practical before parts are bought than after. But then again we all have our opinions, right? Due to the reason my 246 needs a rebuild and new shifter motor. Hope this helps a bit. You can either turn down the output shaft on the transmission or replace the input shaft on the transfer case. I have never done this type of project before so whit that being said what should I be looking for if I buy a rebuilt engine? I am hoping to have enough money in a few weeks to a month to get the engine and most of the other things I need.
The truck will only be driven on the street. Since I use the truck for racing. I'm not saying don't do this, just saying make sure to thoroughly investigate this one before buying any parts. From what I have read this transmission has been used in many vehicles including even Dodges and Jeeps. I plan on replacing the input shaft.
Here's a pic of what it's going into. Tuxedo black metallic paint The 246 spins the front drive shaft sometimes when in 2wd. What would be the best option for this? Here's a good writeup on how it operates. It's about the same length as one of my T350's. Pretty steep first gear if I remember correctly.
Is it a better idea to just spend the extra money and get a rebuilt engine will make this take more time as I will have to come up with extra money? I have been trying to find some information on putting a manual transmission in. Look into mls head gaskets good luck blowing them on a naturaly asperated non nitrus build everyone around here seems to like the v8 style mounts yeah your 4l60 trans should be fine as long as you don't get too crazy dono much about second gen manual swaps tho Put a nice cam in whatever motor you end up with a stock 350 isnt gonna be worth the swap cause you could acomplish as much from a 4. What year S-10s did this come in? I haven't found a torque rating, but the consensus seems to be that they are stronger than a T5. These adapters are for sale by a fellow named time2kill on. I know lots of half ton guys will swap 4wd for awd and vice-versa, but I wasn't sure if anyone here had looked into it. The oil pump can wear a hole in the rear case is generally the problem. Any recommendations for these two things? Sorry for posting in the lifted off-road discussion board but i'm pretty sure this section has more people with 4x4's.
The bell is integral and they use a hydraulic throwout bearing. My other question would be what should I do about motor mounts? It ignites at 883 degrees, and welding can get up to 3300 degrees. Up to a 6 inch difference in length probably would not be an issue but I can see a divorced case adding a foot or more which may. When I put the 4L80E into my full size last year I had to have the front and rear shafts resized. I figure it will be about a month or so before I get everything together to begin the swap so in the mean time I will keep doing research on this and I will post back here as i come up with more questions. This is not my top priority right now I am just trying to get more information about it.
What about the bolt pattern on the bell housing? My friend has a trailblazer he wrecked. That way in the end you will have built two things that really mean something to you. Telco wrote:My biggest concern with your plans is whether the transmission of choice will accept a transfer case. I would like to do this with the least amount of work possible and don't want to relocate the transmission and the transfer case. It would bolt up, but then you would have to run the smaller slip yoke on the driveshaft.